ALIPÚS: San Luis del Rio
San Luis is at 4100 feet, and most of the local agaves are grown at about the same altitude or a bit higher, along the spreading sides of the canyon on the way in. The soils are sandy with lots of rocks, and the climate is hot, meaning lots of flavor. Don Baltazar ferments in 1500-liter pine vats. His mezcals are rich and fruity.
The mill. Note the simple pivot: the axis of the millwheel goes through a hole and is held in place by a metal rod.
Photographs by Katherine Lewis